Arborist chips come from real trees. You get wood, bark, twigs, and leaves. The mix breaks down at a steady pace and feeds soil life.

What chips do better

Hold water. Mixed particle sizes lock together and slow evaporation.
Block weeds. A 3–4 inch layer stops light and smothers seedlings.
Feed soil life. Fungi and microbes turn chips into stable organic matter.
Protect roots. Beds stay cooler in July and warmer in January.
Stay local. Chips often come from nearby work, so trucking stays low.

Why dyed mulch falls short

Color does not help plants. It hides dry spots and leads to overwatering. Many dyed mulches start as ground pallets or jobsite wood. Labels rarely list the source. Fine shreds can crust and shed water. Black mulch heats fast in full sun and can stress shallow roots. Color fades under summer rain and sun, so yards need fresh dye to keep the look.

The nitrogen myth

Surface mulch does not “steal” nitrogen from trees. Tie-up happens at the chip–soil line. Roots sit below that layer. Keep chips on top. Use compost for planting holes and vegetable beds.

How to use arborist chips

Spread 3–4 inches on beds and paths.
Pull chips 3–6 inches back from trunks and stems.
Top up once a year as the layer settles.
Water new plantings first. Add chips after the soak.
For paths, pack 4–6 inches and rake smooth.

Where we fit in

We chip on site when the job allows. We can leave chips for beds, slopes, and trails. Extra loads go to clients, parks, and gardens in our service area.

Bottom line

Chips help plants, soils, and budgets. Dyed mulch helps color. If you want healthy beds, pick chips.

Contact us now
Need arborist chips for your beds or paths? Call (336) 525-1209 or use our contact form. Share a few photos and your address.

Why Arborist Chips Beat Dyed Mulch